Valentino In Ten Interesting Facts

The legendary Italian fashion designer Valentino retired this year after a career spanning more than four decades. To mark this fashion landmark, here are ten interesting facts that you may, or may not, know about the designer.

1. Valentino moved from his native Italy to Paris at the age of 17 to train in the art of couture.

2. After training, he worked for many of the major Parisian fashion houses of the day; Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Jean Desses and Guy Laroche.

3. After his sojourn in Paris, Valentino returned to Italy in 1959 and set up in Rome.

4. Soon after his return to Rome, Valentino met the man who would become his longterm business partner: Giancarlo Giammetti. Giammetti would prove fundamental to the success of the Valentino fashion house through his shrewd business acumen and by allowing Valentino himself to focus solely on the creative side of the enterprise.

5. Valentino's first Italian show was actually in Florence. At that time, Florence was the centre of the Italian fashion industry, thanks to a long history in the production of expensive silks and the location of some of the top Italian fashion houses of the time in the city. It was Valentino, and really Valentino alone, who in successive years was able to show successfully in his adopted hometown of Rome due to his international renown and following. His Florentine show marked the beginning of his success.

6. Valentino marked 45 years in the fashion industry in 2007 with a series of lavish celebrations in Rome from 6th-8th July. These celebrations included a major retrospective of his work in the Ara Pacis museum in Rome. This exhibition then continued until the end of October 2007.

7. One of Valentino's most famous clients, although he has had many of these, was Jackie Kennedy. She was a regular client from 1964 and Valentino designed her wedding dress for her marriage to Aristotle Onassis.

8. Valentino was the first major Italian designer to show regularly at the Paris Haute Couture shows, something he did for the last time on 23rd January 2008. Many of his dresses through the years have been in his trademark red - rosso Valentino.

9. An equity fund, Permira, took control of the Valentino Fashion Group in 2007. Previously, it was owned by Marzotto Apparel and, before that, by HdP. It remains one of the few fashion houses not owned by one of the major three fashion groups; LVMH, the Gucci Group and PPR.

10. Valentino was awarded the distinguished French decoration, the Legion d'Honneur in July 2006. This award was followed this year by the Grand Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris for his services to Parisian fashion. He had already been awarded the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award in 2000.

Paris Special: The Restaurants Of Thiou

Paris offers many wonderful restaurants. Sometimes it is interesting to take a tip from the Parisians themselves. They have been flocking to the three restaurants run by Thai chef Thiou: Thiou and Le Petit Thiou on the Left Bank and Comptoir de Thiou on the Right. Indeed, President Sarkozy is said to have taken Tony Blair to dinner at Thiou. The cuisine is Thai and Thai-fusion. Meals are delicious and light, which can prove to be a refreshing change. The decor is different in each restaurant but shares a restrained and chic ethos throughout. The ambiance is relaxed and the staff are exceptionally friendly and welcoming. Comptoir de Thiou especially is an oasis of calm for a relaxed yet chic meal.
Thiou 49, quai d'Orsay Tel: 0140629650 Le Petit Thiou 3, rue surcouf Tel:0140629670 Comptoir de Thiou 12, avenue George V Tel: 0147208956

Paris Special: Spotlight on.....Reciproque

Nestled on a quiet street in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, far from the main tourist thoroughfares, is a shop called Reciproque. I say "a shop" but in reality, it totals about six different storefronts dotted from 88 to 101 rue de la Pompe. Each little shop deals with a different genre of items i.e. womenswear, menswear, gifts, handbags and accessories. Reciproque is a "vintage" shop. All the stock is second-hand, but some items have only been worn once or twice in fashion shows or magazine shoots. Reciproque is a veritable treasure-trove, an Aladdin's cave stocked to the brim with rails, racks and bins. Items are divided by either designer or size. The presentation can seem a little chaotic, but digging around for a bargain is part of the fun. I found a Loro Piana handbag under a pile of other bags on the floor. It was slashed in price and seemingly forgotten. Some of the clothing can seem a little dated but there is a magnificent selection of furs. The handbag and accessories shop is wonderful and has a rail of vintage Hermes scarves. The revolving stock and lower prices make Reciproque a gem of a shop. However, be prepared to take a discerning eye and sharp elbows.
Reciproque, 88-101 rue de la Pompe, Paris 16eme. Metro Rue de la Pompe, line 9.

Spring 2007 Haute Couture At A Glance

Christian Dior.
In order to be truly haute-couture, a garment must be made in Paris. Each year, only a very select group of designers present haute-couture collections in Paris. These represent the zenith of the creative and practical arts of fashion. Haute-couture is an art-form in itself and the pieces produced are wearable artworks. Of course, as with most artworks, the garments come at a premium. Haute-couture is unattainable to all but a small elite group of buyers. However, some of the themes and ideas filter through to the ready-to-wear collections. In any case, the haute-couture shows are worth studying for the sheer vitality and creativity of the designs. Here is a quick guide to some of the shows:
Dior - the most breath-taking and stunning of all the shows in my opinion. The collection was inspired by Japan, particularly by the story of Madame Butterfly, and featured influences from the clothes of geishas, delicate Japanese art motifs and origami. Nothing new here, you might think. However, what made the collection so interesting was the way in which these influences had been viewed through the lens of the New Look designs of the 40s and 50s (an influence also viewed in the ready-to-wear collection from this house, although in a far more utilitarian way). A collection at once nostalgic and breath-takingly modern, particularly in colour palette (acid pink, vivid green, electric blue) and the architectural form of certain details (shoulder, hips etc). Garments featured bold shapes paired with oversized motifs popular is Japanese art - waves, blossoms. This collection truly showcased the technical wizadry which the haute-couture "petits-mains" can employ in realising a designer's creative vision.
Chanel - by complete contrast, Chanel's collection featured designs with clean lines and a short, neat silhouette with a rigorous colour palette - monochrome, with splashes of colour. Suits and day dresses were given a decidedly 60s twist - mini skirts, round necklines and evening dresses were either short or long, featuring innovative combinations of materials, particularly organza and feathers. This may sound simple, but the collection was anything but: Lagerfeld is all about the details and the construction. What looks young and spontaneous, has actually taken many hours and many hands to construct - a case in point the stunning dress below (210 hours). This is the genius and enduring popularity of Lagerfeld, making the complex seem young and insouciant. Other key details to emerge from this collection are feathers, bows, patent leather accents and fingerless gloves.
Christian Lacroix - this collection bore all the hallmarks of Lacroix: bold colours, exaggerated shapes and prints. Yellow and electric blue were big here, as at Dior. Daywear again had a mainly short silhouette, with skirts being wide this time instead of streamlined as at Chanel. Inspired by flowers, the collection is a joy to behold. Lacroix clothes are for those who are not afraid of making a statement. It was in evening wear that this collection really excelled. Lacroix showed a magnificent selection of evening gowns, in a variety of different shapes and styles but all bearing Lacroix' s trademark precise, yet somehow whimsical tailoring. Frills, layers, large flower accents, ruffles and exaggerated sleeves all in the most delicate and flowing of fabrics.
Armani Prive - a collection inspired by India, although the inspiration manifested itself more in the cut of the garments and the texture of the fabrics than the colour. Armani's palette was mostly neutral - black, grey, silver, white. This allowed the cut of the garments and the subtle embellishments on the garments to really reveal themselves. Metallic, textured fabrics were key - either draped fluidly, or tailored delicately. The influence of the sari became apparent in Armani's evening wear - flowing lines, one-shouldered garments, draping - although given a sleek, typically Armani treament.
Valentino - Valentino showed an all-white (well, nearly, there were some very subtle hints of pink and yellow) collection, which was light and airy in its construction. Rich in detail, embellished fabrics, daywear was young and frivolous. Valentino is, of course, master of the red carpet gown. There were several key gowns, which could well appear on a red-carpet soon.
Givenchy - Riccardo Tisci presented a pared back, almost macabre collection for Givenchy. This wasn't to all tastes, but there were certain flashes of genius. Key features were a monochrome colour palette punctuated with splashes of bright yellow; deconstructed yet tailored naval inspired jackets; details applied to Edwardian inspired dress like sea-shells, anemones and other marine flora clinging to rocks.

Tea Time!

Image copyright Louisa McKenzie.
For those of us who dislike coffee, want a healthy drink or just love tea, the Tea Palace in Westbourne Grove, London is paradise. A restaurant and a shop for teas and tea related products, it stocks an unprecedented range. Black teas, green teas, white teas, tisanes, mate, rooibos and blends of all of the above nestle in huge, imperial purple tins, stacked neatly on shelves from floor to ceiling behind the counter. The friendly and knowledgable staff are always willing to offer suggestions both for specific "complaints" i.e. tea to boost the immune system, to help you sleep, for digestive difficulties and specific requests (e.g. allergies). Unlike many so called "healthy" drinks, these teas are both delicious and are designed purely to be drinks, not herbal remedies. One of my favourites, particularly during "cold season" is Immune Boost, an organic blend of echinacea, ginseng, orange, ginger and lemon. This is great first thing in the morning. Particularly impressive is the wide range of green teas, both plain and flavoured. There is always something new to try when you visit. All of the teas are available both to be drunk in the restaurant and to be bought from the shop. This also stocks infusers, teapots , sugar and tea gift sets. The teapots range from the ordinary to the rare. The gift sets are particularly imaginative: tailored to the seasons and presented in a range of cases, sets and "books".
The restaurant at the Tea Palace lives up to expectations. It is particularly popular at the weekend. The food is hearty and tasty and there is a range to suit all appetites.
Tea Palace, 175 Westbourne Grove, London. W11 2SB, UK. +44 (0)20 7727 2600.
Shop online at www.teapalace.co.uk.

Below, A Priori Thé, copyright Louisa McKenzie.
If you love the Tea Palace, you'll also be impressed by A Priori Thé, a beautiful tearoom set in the 19th century splendour of the Galerie Vivienne in Paris, France (the two places are NOT associated). Incredibly popular with locals, it is set slightly away from the main tourist sights but is well worth a visit. It is important to get there early because, being quite small, A Priori Thé fills up quite quickly. There is always a queue. Whilst there isn't quite the range of teas here that there is the Tea Palace, A Priori Thé is not to be outdone. It stocks a selection of teas provided by the legendary blenders Dammann. The teas are renowned for their delicate palates and fruity notes. I would particularly recommend the orange flavoured green tea for a refreshing accompaniment to most meals. The food is equally impressive at A Priori Thé, the goats cheese souflé omlette being light, yet filling. There is a tart or quiche of the day, which is always particularly popular. When you have finished your delicious meal you can explore the Galerie Vivienne, which offers a snapshot of Paris' past but is beautifully maintained.
A Priori Thé, 35-37 Galerie Vivienne, Paris, 75002, France. +33 (0) 1 42 97 4875.

Spotlight on.....Colette

Photographs courtesy of and copyright Colette.
This Parisien boutique is unique in every sense of the word. Stretched over three floors of minimalist design, it stocks a variety of goods, from clothes and accessories to cosmetics, jewellery, books, CDs, DVDs, collectibles and electronic goods (IPods and other MP3 players in particular). The emphasis of the shop is very much on contemporary design. Most of the books cover different facets of this topic. The clothes, mainly by high end designers, are all displayed on mannequins, not on hangers and rails, making it seem more like an art gallery for clothes than a shop. The jewellery stocked ranges in price from the fairly expensive to the really expensive. However, you won't find items in many other shops.
On the lower ground floor there is the water bar, stocking delicious snacks. The shop is also renowned for the wide variety of its customers.
Some of the collectibles on the ground floor feature Cap and Pep, two little cartoon dogs exclusive to Colette - the diaries are particularly stunning this season.
Whether you have something specific in mind, or whether you just want to browse, you are sure to find something to buy in Colette. Indeed, even if you can't visit Paris, the website and its eShop are well worth a visit. Truly, it is one of the most innovative shop websites I have ever seen.
Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honore, 75001 Paris. Tel: 01 55 35 33 90. www.colette.fr