Spotlight on.....By Terry

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
My new favourite make-up range, By Terry, is the brainchild of Terry de Gunzburg. Formerly of Yves Saint Laurent (Touche Eclat was a key product), Terry's eponymous make-up line has been available in France for several years but has recently been lauched in the UK and the USA. By Terry products are distinguished by their usability, range of colors and light texture. You never feel like you are wearing make-up, just that your skin has been improved.
The bedrock of the range is its wonderful choice of foundations. Echoes of Touche Eclat can be seen the newest product - Light Expert. This is a chubby foundation pen with a large brush. This makes application very easy. The foundation itself is extremely blendable and, as its name would suggest, light reflective. My other favourite products are the eye shadows, which I find extremely long lasting and to have an excellent, wearable colour palette and the mascara. The innovative shape of mascara wand allows the mascara to coat the lashes exactly where it is needed (more at the outer corners). Lashes are left looking natural, but fabulous.
By Terry products are innovative and well designed. Their practicality makes them perfect for the woman who does not have hours to spend on her make-up every day.
www.byterry.com

Beauty Burst - Shiseido The Skincare

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
It has always been my opinion that prevention is better than cure, especially when it comes to good skincare. However, it seems that everyday there is a new skincare range vying for attention. Over the years, in the name of science (and because I have difficult skin) I have tried many of these ranges, from cheap to expensive. I have just discovered a recently reformulated range which is perfect for my skin - Shisedio The Skincare. Ok, "So just because it suits your skin doesn't mean it will suit my skin" you might say. I would agree. However, the beauty of the Shiseido range is that it has three different levels: light, normal and enriched, so that you can be advised of the right level for your specific skin type. I use the "light" end of the spectrum because I have sensitive, oil-prone skin.
The innovative formula has replaced the "toner" stage of a normal skincare routine with a "skin softener". This is a viscous, clear lotion which plumps the skin and allows you to use less moisturiser afterwards. After using the routine for a month, my skin is glowing, and it hasn't been glowing for years.
A word of warning - if looking to buy the product in the UK, make sure to check that you are buying the updated range, some counters haven't replaced the old stock yet.
www.shiseido.co.uk

A Quick Message From Quis Sum?

Hello all!

Never fear, there will be new posts soon. Sorry for the delay - have been away. However, you can expect some goodies over the coming weeks, including: destination and shopping reviews for New York City, some very useful beauty ideas and much more.

Best,

Quis Sum?

Four Key New York Shows

Oscar de la Renta
New York fashion week is always a barometer for the rest of fashion. Many new designers start their careers here - to varying degrees of success. This season provided some interesting contrasts. However, there were four key shows, which are sure to be influential.
Proenza Schouler - providing plenty to think about, Proenza Schouler sent all its models down the runway wearing cloche hats. The influence of the early twenties was not restricted to millinery. Many of the silhouettes seemed influenced by this time-period, from flapper dresses to slouchy double breasted coats. However, much like the Dior haute-couture collection, the Proenza Schouler show mixed historical influences with a modern sensibility - here, daring mixes of fabrics and textures. These fabrics were often extremely luxurious. Nonetheless, expect many of the themes to be replicated (to a degree, with less luxurious fabrics!) on the high street next season.
Zac Posen - as can be expected with Zac Posen, impeccable tailoring, opulent fabrics and a generous helping of subdued glitz ruled the day. There were plenty of reliable cocktail looks to please even the most social of butterflies. Coats provided an area of experimentation, both in fabric and style. There were also some key evening gowns, illustrating Posen's flair for the dramatic.
Marc Jacobs - hats were also greatly in evidence at the Marc Jacobs show - expect Fall 2007 to be the season of the hat. Here shapes and colors were far more diverse than at Proenza Schouler and matched Jacobs' varied, sophisticated palette. Silhouettes were sleek, lean and pared down. Fabrics mainly matched the sleek outlines - embellishment mainly found expression in tailored details (pin-tucks, folds, belts) and color combinations, except for a few sequinned examples.
Oscar de la Renta - the supreme embodiment of Upper East chic, Oscar de la Renta knows exactly what to do and how to do it. Key details were fur (collars, hems, cuffs, edges), rich colors (burgundy, midnight blue, imperial purple and gunmetal) and embellished evening wear. A versatile, luxe collection, it contained enough varied looks to please those of wildly differing sensibilities. Exaggerated hips shared space with twinkling cocktail wear. Plain, pared down evening wear shared space with fabrics rich in surface detail.

Five To Watch From New York Fashion Week

1. Brian Reyes
   
2. 3.1 Phillip Lim
3. Tory Burch
4. Rodarte
5. Peter Som

Spring 2007 Haute Couture At A Glance

Christian Dior.
In order to be truly haute-couture, a garment must be made in Paris. Each year, only a very select group of designers present haute-couture collections in Paris. These represent the zenith of the creative and practical arts of fashion. Haute-couture is an art-form in itself and the pieces produced are wearable artworks. Of course, as with most artworks, the garments come at a premium. Haute-couture is unattainable to all but a small elite group of buyers. However, some of the themes and ideas filter through to the ready-to-wear collections. In any case, the haute-couture shows are worth studying for the sheer vitality and creativity of the designs. Here is a quick guide to some of the shows:
Dior - the most breath-taking and stunning of all the shows in my opinion. The collection was inspired by Japan, particularly by the story of Madame Butterfly, and featured influences from the clothes of geishas, delicate Japanese art motifs and origami. Nothing new here, you might think. However, what made the collection so interesting was the way in which these influences had been viewed through the lens of the New Look designs of the 40s and 50s (an influence also viewed in the ready-to-wear collection from this house, although in a far more utilitarian way). A collection at once nostalgic and breath-takingly modern, particularly in colour palette (acid pink, vivid green, electric blue) and the architectural form of certain details (shoulder, hips etc). Garments featured bold shapes paired with oversized motifs popular is Japanese art - waves, blossoms. This collection truly showcased the technical wizadry which the haute-couture "petits-mains" can employ in realising a designer's creative vision.
Chanel - by complete contrast, Chanel's collection featured designs with clean lines and a short, neat silhouette with a rigorous colour palette - monochrome, with splashes of colour. Suits and day dresses were given a decidedly 60s twist - mini skirts, round necklines and evening dresses were either short or long, featuring innovative combinations of materials, particularly organza and feathers. This may sound simple, but the collection was anything but: Lagerfeld is all about the details and the construction. What looks young and spontaneous, has actually taken many hours and many hands to construct - a case in point the stunning dress below (210 hours). This is the genius and enduring popularity of Lagerfeld, making the complex seem young and insouciant. Other key details to emerge from this collection are feathers, bows, patent leather accents and fingerless gloves.
Christian Lacroix - this collection bore all the hallmarks of Lacroix: bold colours, exaggerated shapes and prints. Yellow and electric blue were big here, as at Dior. Daywear again had a mainly short silhouette, with skirts being wide this time instead of streamlined as at Chanel. Inspired by flowers, the collection is a joy to behold. Lacroix clothes are for those who are not afraid of making a statement. It was in evening wear that this collection really excelled. Lacroix showed a magnificent selection of evening gowns, in a variety of different shapes and styles but all bearing Lacroix' s trademark precise, yet somehow whimsical tailoring. Frills, layers, large flower accents, ruffles and exaggerated sleeves all in the most delicate and flowing of fabrics.
Armani Prive - a collection inspired by India, although the inspiration manifested itself more in the cut of the garments and the texture of the fabrics than the colour. Armani's palette was mostly neutral - black, grey, silver, white. This allowed the cut of the garments and the subtle embellishments on the garments to really reveal themselves. Metallic, textured fabrics were key - either draped fluidly, or tailored delicately. The influence of the sari became apparent in Armani's evening wear - flowing lines, one-shouldered garments, draping - although given a sleek, typically Armani treament.
Valentino - Valentino showed an all-white (well, nearly, there were some very subtle hints of pink and yellow) collection, which was light and airy in its construction. Rich in detail, embellished fabrics, daywear was young and frivolous. Valentino is, of course, master of the red carpet gown. There were several key gowns, which could well appear on a red-carpet soon.
Givenchy - Riccardo Tisci presented a pared back, almost macabre collection for Givenchy. This wasn't to all tastes, but there were certain flashes of genius. Key features were a monochrome colour palette punctuated with splashes of bright yellow; deconstructed yet tailored naval inspired jackets; details applied to Edwardian inspired dress like sea-shells, anemones and other marine flora clinging to rocks.

Trend-watch - the upcoming season, part 1

Lanvin
1. neon brights - this season, it is the brighter, the better colour-wise: electric blue, pink, yellow are very popular. This is not a look for the faint-hearted. A good idea is to stick to accessories, such as bags, belts and jewellery.

2. super-high or flat as a pancake - for the second season running, there isn't much hope if you are a fan of kitten heels. Designers have continued their love affair with super (and I mean super!) high heels in the 4inches+ range. There are some amazing, sexy, chic designs out there but that doesn't make them any easier to walk in - so start practising now. Either that, or choose to go to the other extreme and pick a dainty, elegant flat. Look out, in particular, for the round toe flats and for some very exciting Roman and Native American influenced sandals.



Gucci (above) and Balenciaga (below).
3. architectural pieces - designers like Hussein Chalayan and Dolce and Gabanna showed some amazing, structural pieces on the catwalk, like this example with panniered hips, which looks a lot like armour. Pick a slightly pared-down version of this trend (for one thing, it'll be easier to get through doorways!), such as this dress by Fendi.

Dolce and Gabbana (left) and Fendi (right).
4. metallics - a big trend this season, almost everyone showed something metallic. If the idea of Balenciaga's gold robot leggings frightens you, stick with one of Marc Jacobs metallised jackets.

Balenciaga
Check back soon for part 2 and for a look at the New York shows.

My Funny Valentine!

Photography copyright Louisa McKenzie.

So, Valentine's day is fast approaching: the one day of the year which strikes joy into the hearts of some and fear/abject desperation into the hearts of others. If you are worried about what to buy this year, here are some suggestions for unusual gifts:

1. spa vouchers - some would say a little boring and uninventive but they will always be popular with the person receiving the gift. You are giving them the gift of time and relaxation.
2. a rare book/record - a gift which is obviously dependent on the stage of the relationship (never too much too soon) and the personal taste of your partner. However, if your loved one has a favorite author or book, or has always been looking for a rare record or DVD, nothing says "I love you (and I was listening all those times you told me about it)" like this type of gift.
3. a well-planned event - this is the ideal gift if work takes up a lot of your and/or your partner's time. Plan something like a picnic (weather permitting), a special meal, a bike ride, anything which suits your partner. Make sure you have enough time to do it - don't worry if you can't manage Valentine's Day, pick a time you can both do.
4. "Good Gifts" - a reall great idea for a gift these days is to give someone a charity gift. Goats are very popular at Christmas, but there are many more to choose from and there is something for every budget. The companies often also have occasion-suitable gifts Just make sure the company is reputable. Popular and effective companies are: Good Gifts, Oxfam Unwrapped and Cafod World Gifts.

TOP TIP - pretty, well-thought out wrapping goes a long way!
www.worldgifts.cafod.org.uk
www.goodgifts.org
www.oxfamunwrapped.com

Spotlight on....Luisa Via Roma

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Florence, Italy does not lack for designer boutiques. In fact, the via Tornabuoni is full of the usual suspects: Prada, Armani, Cavalli. Indeed, Florence gave the world both Salvatore Ferragamo and Pucci, something of a rarity in Milano-centric Italy. However, wandering through Florence on my annual pilgrimage last summer (well, actually, limping as I had just badly injured my foot), I discovered a gem of a shop, stocking harder to find, more edgy designers such as Givenchy, Lanvin, Alexander McQueen and D-Squared - all up-to-date collections. The buyers are extremely good. Indeed, at the moment, it is one place to pre-order some of the new, hotly anticipated bags which are the result of a collaboration between Mulberry and Giles Deacon (please see future post for more).
Situated just off one of Florence's main squares, the Piazza della Repubblica, in the via della Roma, just near the Duomo, it is open seven days a week.
A large space, set over several floors, Luisa Via Roma offers plenty of temptation for even the most jaded shopper. I have also never seen some of the stock anywhere else. Luisa Via Roma is more than just a clothes shop, it is more of a concept store. The staff are very friendly, very helpful and mutli-lingual. Nothing was too much trouble for them. There is also a menswear section upstairs. Indeed, the Florence shop was recently the location for the launch party of Lapo Elkann's new label Italia Independente.
There are two more Luisa Via Roma stores in Italy, the De Grillis boutique in Rome and LVRP, in Prato. However, if you are not intending to visit Italy soon, Luisa Via Roma has a comprehensive and well-designed website which ships worldwide.
www.luisaviaroma.com
Luisa Via Roma, via Roma 19/21 r, 50123, Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 (0) 55 21 78 26
De Grillis, via Campo Carleo 25, 00184, Rome, Italy. Tel: +39 (0) 6 69 29 31 18
LVRP, via Roma 24, 59100, Prato, Italy. Tel: +39 (0) 5 74 4018 40

Tea Time!

Image copyright Louisa McKenzie.
For those of us who dislike coffee, want a healthy drink or just love tea, the Tea Palace in Westbourne Grove, London is paradise. A restaurant and a shop for teas and tea related products, it stocks an unprecedented range. Black teas, green teas, white teas, tisanes, mate, rooibos and blends of all of the above nestle in huge, imperial purple tins, stacked neatly on shelves from floor to ceiling behind the counter. The friendly and knowledgable staff are always willing to offer suggestions both for specific "complaints" i.e. tea to boost the immune system, to help you sleep, for digestive difficulties and specific requests (e.g. allergies). Unlike many so called "healthy" drinks, these teas are both delicious and are designed purely to be drinks, not herbal remedies. One of my favourites, particularly during "cold season" is Immune Boost, an organic blend of echinacea, ginseng, orange, ginger and lemon. This is great first thing in the morning. Particularly impressive is the wide range of green teas, both plain and flavoured. There is always something new to try when you visit. All of the teas are available both to be drunk in the restaurant and to be bought from the shop. This also stocks infusers, teapots , sugar and tea gift sets. The teapots range from the ordinary to the rare. The gift sets are particularly imaginative: tailored to the seasons and presented in a range of cases, sets and "books".
The restaurant at the Tea Palace lives up to expectations. It is particularly popular at the weekend. The food is hearty and tasty and there is a range to suit all appetites.
Tea Palace, 175 Westbourne Grove, London. W11 2SB, UK. +44 (0)20 7727 2600.
Shop online at www.teapalace.co.uk.

Below, A Priori Thé, copyright Louisa McKenzie.
If you love the Tea Palace, you'll also be impressed by A Priori Thé, a beautiful tearoom set in the 19th century splendour of the Galerie Vivienne in Paris, France (the two places are NOT associated). Incredibly popular with locals, it is set slightly away from the main tourist sights but is well worth a visit. It is important to get there early because, being quite small, A Priori Thé fills up quite quickly. There is always a queue. Whilst there isn't quite the range of teas here that there is the Tea Palace, A Priori Thé is not to be outdone. It stocks a selection of teas provided by the legendary blenders Dammann. The teas are renowned for their delicate palates and fruity notes. I would particularly recommend the orange flavoured green tea for a refreshing accompaniment to most meals. The food is equally impressive at A Priori Thé, the goats cheese souflé omlette being light, yet filling. There is a tart or quiche of the day, which is always particularly popular. When you have finished your delicious meal you can explore the Galerie Vivienne, which offers a snapshot of Paris' past but is beautifully maintained.
A Priori Thé, 35-37 Galerie Vivienne, Paris, 75002, France. +33 (0) 1 42 97 4875.

Crisis Averted

Ok. All back to normal now. Please continue e-mailing me. Thank you for your patience.
Quis Sum?

Spotlight on.....Fresh

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
While there has been a proliferation of natural and naturally inspired cosmetic brands, Fresh remains one of the best. With a wide range of products: make-up, skincare, haircare, perfume and bodycare, there is plenty to choose from for both men and women. The beauty of Fresh is two-fold: firstly, that the products are really effective (and this coming from a paid-up beauty sceptic) and secondly, that the packaging is delicate and exquisite, worthy of any dressing table. Particularly impressive is the wide range of ingredients used and the strange-sounding, but surprisingly effective, combination of these ingredients. I am notoriously difficult to find perfume for, so never would I have thought that I would be wearing a fragrance called "redcurrant basil", and yet, I am. It is delightfully fruity and light, with just the right level of crispness. Similarly successful are the wide range of soap scents. There is something to please everybody. My spies tell me that the V-tonic soap is particularly effective on dry skins. Furthermore, the wide range of gift (many different prices) sets can be particularly useful when you need a last minute present.
The staff in the shops are friendly and knowledgeable, so the best thing to do is drop in and try some products.
Fresh shops in the USA, UK and Korea. See www.fresh.com for details.

Florence, Italy - Culture And Shopping

Photo by and copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Florence is a paradise for art lovers and avid shoppers alike, a place where one can see world-renowned art and architecture but also be enchanted by a fresco or terracotta frieze in a small side street. It is also a destination which offers a broad spectrum of shopping opportunities.

Obviously, a trip to Florence would not be complete without a visit to its key museums and galleries: the Uffizi, the Galleria dell'Accademia and the Pitti Palace. In the high season, these can get very busy. It is a frequent occurence in the summer for the queue for the Uffizi to stretch all the way around the loggia and outside again. Those "in the know" never queue. The way to avoid queuing is to book tickets in advance from (+39) 055 294 883. This service allows you to book in advance for any of the state museums in Florence. You do not need to give credit card details, just your name. Your are then given a booking number which you take along with you when collecting your tickets. This service is invaluable, saving as it does hours of queuing under the beautiful, but sometimes harsh, Tuscan sun.

Also, almost all of Florence's churches contain important artworks, although I suggest that an attempt to view all of these is only for the extremely studious. In my opinion, the best are the cathedral church (the Duomo), for Brunelleschi's inspiring dome; the Baptistery opposite the Duomo, for its fantastic Byzantine inspired mosaic ceiling; the serene San Marco to view the work of Fra Angelico and Santa Maria Novella, for the fresco cycles of the Tornabuoni and Strozzi chapels and the Trinity by Masaccio. The latter work is fantastically important from an art historical point of view as it is the first example of perspective being used in a painting.

However, Florence also contains some hidden gems, mentioned by guide books, but not often visited - lost among the multitude of things to see and do in Florence. They are, however, a delight. Also, by their very nature, they are often far less crowded than elsewhere. The Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, relatively hidden on the opposite side of the street at the rear of the Duomo, is an efficient and well planned museum containing many important works. The original bronze Baptistery door panels, realized by Ghiberti in the fifteenth century are to be found in the Museo. The doors on the Baptistery are replicas. The museum also contains a Pieta by Michelangelo, Donatello's Mary Magdalen and a set of exquisite Renaissance vestments designed by Antonio dell Pollaiuolo. The church of Santa Trinita, nestling behind a nonedscript facade opposite the Salvatore Ferragamo shop and museum, contains a beautiful set of works by Ghirlandaio.

An ideal location for magnificent vistas of Florence is San Miniato al Monte in the Oltrano. San Miniato is a church situated on a hill in a smart area of Florence, easily accesible by bus or taxi. It is far better to walk down from San Miniato than to walk up. The journey down provides more great views of the Arno winding through the centre of the city. If arriving by bus, get off at the Piazzale Michelangelo to take best advantage of this. A great cafe is situated on the Piazzale, called La Loggia. It provides an unprecedented opportunity for taking in the view whilst the occasional harmless gecko scampers through the shrubbery.

The church of San Miniato is far more simple inside than the majority of Florentine churches, due to its early date, with beautiful painted beams stretching far above the worshipper's head. The only exception is the breathtaking Cardinal of Portugal's chapel, a masterpiece of the marriage of the sculpted and painted arts. The altarpiece is a replica, the original being housed in the Uffizi.

When you are suffering from art fatigue, Florence provides excellent opportunities for shopping, due to its manageable size and the breadth of the products available. The high-end shops can mainly be found on the via Tornabuoni. Salvatore Ferragamo's headquarters are to be found here, the first shopfront when approaching from the river. As befits headquarters, there is impressive stock coverage: shoes, clothing, bags, sunglasses. Above the shop is the Museo Ferragamo, exhibiting some of Ferragamo's outstanding historical designs. A walk along the via Tornabuoni finds all the designer suspects present and correct. The Roberto Cavalli store houses its own cafe for light refreshments. Louis Vuitton and Fendi are noticeable absentees but can be found in the via degli Strozzi which runs between the via Tornabuoni and the Piazza della Repubblica. For a mix of high-end and innovative designers who don't have shops in Florence, for example, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen, head to Luisa Via Roma at the top side of the Piazza della Repubblica. The staff are also fantastically helpful.


Photo by and copyright Louisa McKenzie.
One of the best things to buy in Florence is leather gloves. I always buy cashmere lined ones from Martelli in the via di Por Santa Maria during visits to Florence. The selection is second to none. In addition to plain cashmere lines gloves, which I choose for warmth and adaptability, they carry myriad other styles and a full range of colours for men and women. Also, staff fit the glove size to the hand of each customer, even if you know your size, to ensure the best fit. The Antica Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, of which the London, New York and Los Angeles stores are additional branches, is a must (via della Scala). The shop is a treat for all the senses and one really does feel as if one is stepping back in time. The staff are friendly, multi-lingual and leave the customer to explore the rooms and products at leisure.

There are some great day-trips to take from Florence: Siena, San Gigminano, Fiesole and Arezzo. However, the beauty of Florence, is that each visitor can discover something new or unique during their stay.

What A Good Idea...Cath Kidston Toiletries

The retro-chic of Cath Kidston continues to go from strength to strength. One of the latest additions is the toiletries range, combining all the elements which have made Cath Kidston great: colourful packaging, good quality and attractive vintage ideas. Bubble bath, body cream, talcum powder, hand cream and soap are all available.
Just in time for Christmas, the range is available in a variety of gift boxes, for example a hat box (above). There are three different scents: rose and carnation, lemon and geranium and lilac and lavender, so there is enough to please anyone.
Available in Cath Kidston shops worldwide. Please see www.cathkidston.co.uk for details.

Ethical Fashion - who, what, where, how?

Image courtesy of and copyright Edun. Shows design from Edun Autumn/Winter range.
Ethical fashion is big news these days, and so it should be. However, in practice, few of us really know where or how to buy ethical items, or we assume that they will be badly designed or prohibitively expensive. This is not the case.

One of the most widely known ethical clothing brands is Edun, which describes itself as a "socially conscious clothing company" and is the brainchild of Ali Hewson, Bono and Rogan Gregory. With an emphasis on providing "trade not aid" for the people who produce the clothes, Edun uses factories in Africa, South America and India. Edun clothes are stylish and well-designed, perfect for the chic but practical individual (male or female). The upcoming Spring/Summer 2007 collection has three ranges: Madder Red, Primrose and Quill and White Symphony. The inspiration for these collections is very much the natural world. Some of the fabrics used to manufacture items are also part of a sustainable development. The Coco jacket is woven out of a wild silk from Namibia, the cultivation and use of which provides jobs for people in the rural areas where the silk is cultivated. Delicate dresses, tailored jackets and cool separates are key for the women's range; casual separates, funky detailing and modern lines are key to the men's range. Edun garments range in price, making it affordable for anyone. At the moment, Edun also have a special edition t-shirt in conjunction with ONE campaign.The t-shirt is made in Lesotho from 100% African cotton. For every t-shirt sold, Edun gives $10 to the ALAFA fund to fight AIDS by providing vital medicines for those affected in the area.

There are also other, lesser known ethical brands available in the UK. Topshop stocks several Fairtrade ranges (Gossypium, Hug and People Tree) in certain flagship stores and over the internet. Marks and Spencers has also started to produce several items from Fairtrade cotton. For items to be designated Fairtrade, they are awarded the Fairtrade mark. This is awarded to products which meet internationally agreed standards by the Fairtrade foundation, an independent body. It is an independent guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal. The ranges stocked by Topshop also have their own websites and online shops (for details see below). Gossypium is particularly good. It produces stylish, affordable, natural yogawear, casual wear, underwear and even maternity wear. It also has men's, children's and baby ranges and household ranges. The items are sleek and chic, in a range of elegant colours and innovative designs. Hug has similar items, although not such an extensive range. However, it does also produce jeans. People Tree has a particularly wide range of items including dresses and a very good selection of accessories.

So, this Christmas, or in fact at any time of the year, why don't you buy someone (or yourself) some "ethical clothing". No longer does it mean clunky shoes and a hemp skirt. There are some wonderful, affordable items out there. Plus, you can feel good that someone else, somewhere else in the world, someone who you will never meet, is being benefitted by your actions. Indeed, just think of this little-known statistic, pointed out by Edun's Ali Hewson, " Africa has lost six percent of the world trade since the Seventies. If they could regain one percent of that, Africa would earn $70 billion a year. They currently receive only $22 billion a year in aid. "

Where To Buy:
Edun: UK - Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols. Ireland - Brown Thomas. Canada - Holt
Renfrew. Spain - El Corte Ingles. Japan - Beams, Club 21, Isetan. USA - Barneys,
Nordstrom and Fred Segal. www.edun.ie
Topshop: selected stores nationwide (UK). www.topshop.com
Gossypium: www.gossypium.co.uk
Hug: www.hug.co.uk
People Tree: www.peopletree.co.uk

For Further Information On Issues Raised:
www.fairtrade.org.uk; www.one.org

What A Good Idea....Missoni Scarves

Photograph courtesy of and copyright Missoni.
Usually the idea of receiving an item of clothing (and a knitted item of clothing at that!) as a Christmas gift strikes fear into the heart. Can we ever trust anyone to judge our own taste? There are few of us who can answer "Yes". However, there is one item of clothing at least which is almost guaranteed to put a smile on the face of its recipient - the Missoni scarf. Stocked by all major department stores and coming in a range of colours, this is an ideal Christmas present or seasonal gift. At this time of year, the heavier, winter weight knitted scarves are most popular. Silk scarves, square and long, can also be found but are more popular in the summer. These can be worn both round the neck and as bright headscarves. Look out for the poppy print this year - it is bound to become a collectible.
In any event, a sure fire winner!

Spotlight on.....Colette

Photographs courtesy of and copyright Colette.
This Parisien boutique is unique in every sense of the word. Stretched over three floors of minimalist design, it stocks a variety of goods, from clothes and accessories to cosmetics, jewellery, books, CDs, DVDs, collectibles and electronic goods (IPods and other MP3 players in particular). The emphasis of the shop is very much on contemporary design. Most of the books cover different facets of this topic. The clothes, mainly by high end designers, are all displayed on mannequins, not on hangers and rails, making it seem more like an art gallery for clothes than a shop. The jewellery stocked ranges in price from the fairly expensive to the really expensive. However, you won't find items in many other shops.
On the lower ground floor there is the water bar, stocking delicious snacks. The shop is also renowned for the wide variety of its customers.
Some of the collectibles on the ground floor feature Cap and Pep, two little cartoon dogs exclusive to Colette - the diaries are particularly stunning this season.
Whether you have something specific in mind, or whether you just want to browse, you are sure to find something to buy in Colette. Indeed, even if you can't visit Paris, the website and its eShop are well worth a visit. Truly, it is one of the most innovative shop websites I have ever seen.
Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honore, 75001 Paris. Tel: 01 55 35 33 90. www.colette.fr

Karl Lagerfeld - A Profile

Photography courtesy of and copyright Chanel.
After a career spanning six decades, Karl Lagerfeld is still at the top of his game. He is director of collections at Chanel, a label synonymous with high fashion and couture. During Lagerfeld's time in this role, the label has once again attained the zenith of creativity it had in the glory days of Mademoiselle Coco Chanel. In addition to designing for Chanel, Lagerfeld has his own labels Karl Lagerfeld and Lagerfeld Collection, his first New York based lines and works as an artistic adviser for Fendi (a collaboration which began in the 1960s). As well as designing, Lagerfeld is an accomplished artist, having taken a break from his fashion career in the 1960s to study this subject.

A prodigy, Lagerfeld gained his entree into the fashion world by winning a design competition in 1955, at the age of seventeen. Also at the competition, winning a different category, was another young, unknown designer, Yves Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld's win gained him a position at the fashion house of Pierre Balmain, then incredibly popular. Vintage Balmain has always been sought-after, but is starting to become very collectible. The mark of the early years of Lagerfeld's career, both at Balmain and then Jean Patou (another very fashionable, innovative label at the time) can be seen in the incredible cut and tailoring of Lagerfeld's designs for Chanel. However, as anyone who has watched Chanel's collections from the Lagerfeld years knows, classic tailoring is tempered with a palpable sense of modernity. It was perhaps this desire to be free from the stifling atmosphere of 1950s and 1960s couture houses which prompted Lagerfeld to quickly move into a career as a freelance designer and then take a break to study art. Scenes from the recent documentary "The House Of Chanel" showed just how marvellous an artist Lagerfeld actually is, sketching quickly and accurately the ideas which come into his head, but with the skill of an illustrator.

The fashion bug had not completely left Lagerfeld however. He returned to the industry in the 1960s and made his name at Chloe in the 1970s. His work for this label again showed his desire for the designer and the consumer to be free from the strictures of contemporary couture.

Joining Chanel in 1983, Lagerfeld has made the label his own. The Chanel haute-couture show is one of the most eagerly anticipated of the season. Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear designs are aware of the label's traditions, stalwarts include signature tweeds and quilted bags, for example, but with a thoroughly modern twist. The accessories line, in particular the bags and sunglasses, has become incredibly popular in recent years. No Hollywood starlet seems complete without her Chanel bag, whether a classic quilted model or a more daring design from the current Paris-New York or Luxury By Chanel lines. These lines display classic or signature Chanel details, diamond pattern stitching , chain handles, double C logo, with more unusual and varied fabrics, for example, ponyskin, suede, distressed leather, oversized alligator. Such marriage of tradition and innovation is key to the way Lagerfeld works at Chanel. This season's Chanel collections can be summed up as "rock and roll classic": tweed jackets teamed with skinny jeans, deconstructed leather jackets over ruffled shirts, mini skirts and boots. Eveningwear is both short and long, featuring tiers, black lace and intricate surface detail. The palate, as so often with Chanel, is monochrome, with dashes of colour here and there, mainly blue and red. A sportswear line is also designed.

Lagerfeld's own lines have their unique distinct design ethos. Again working with a palette of mainly, but not exclusively, black they feature more relaxed designs, some deconstructed, some impeccably tailored. Use of a wide range of materials and the concept of drape is key.

In addition to fashion design work, Lagerfeld is also known for his photography, which has featured in several magazines. He is also well-known in recent years for a diet which helped him to lose 92 pounds. This is the subject of a book: The Karl Lagerfeld Diet by Karl Lagerfeld, Dr Jean-Claude Houdret and Ingrid Sischy. Furthermore, Lagerfeld has also produced costumes for several key stage productions for La Scala in Milan, the opera in Florence and the ballet of Monte Carlo.

A true fashion original, he shows no sign of slowing down and we're sure to see more fabulous collections from him in years to come.
Quis Sum?

It's Outerwear Jim, But Not As We Know It

Much in the same way that the original Star Trek series showed what people thought the world would be like in future years, this season's key coats are reminiscent of futuristic 1960s and 1970s designs. Bold patterns, daring shapes, embellishment and a mix of fabrics are all key looks this season. Having said that, there is a great deal of choice out there and you are sure to find your dream coat.
Bold Shapes
This season is awash with bold, futuristic shapes. Particularly popular are swing and trapeze coats. Funnel necks are also about, but these can be a little uncomfortable (at least to my mind) so make sure you don't completely sacrifice substance for style (tempting as this may be). Chloe has some good examples of bold shapes. Burberry is great for swing coats, some of their only designs not belted this season. For a rarer coat, try Jean Paul Gaultier, who has belted coats with wide "skirts" this season. Bold shapes are often collarless, so bear this in mind when you are on the hunt.
Patterned
If you want bold patterns, you need look no further than Missoni, the make to beat in this field. Admittedly patterns can be daunting, but worn well, with plain clothes and minimal accessories, they can look particularly stunning. Ashish, Charles Anastase and Richard Chai are some other examples of interesting prints.
Embellishment
Embellishment takes many forms on coats this season, from belts to buttons to badges. However, beware, because it can also date badly, leaving you with a coat which is only wearable for one season. With this in mind, embellishment through buttons is perhaps the best thing to look for as these can always be changed in the future. Miu Miu and Prada have some good examples. YSL's sequined astrakhan coats and rosebud capes are the epitome of this season's feminine take on embellishment.
Enjoy.
Quis Sum?