Spotlight on.....Origins' Modern Friction

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Modern Friction and Modern Friction For Body are great naturally based microdermabrasion solutions from Origins. Containing natural ingredients such as rice starch, it provides a gentle, yet effective alternative to off-the-shelf or in spa chemical treatments. The cream is thick and has the consistency of spreadable marshmallow. The cream is applied to dry skin (or damp if the skin is sensitive) and massaged in. Then, water is added. You should massage again and then thoroughly rinse. The skin is left feeling smooth and sleek. Care really must be taken not to get any product in your eyes, especially when you are rinsing your face, as this can be quite painful. However, the smooth result is well worth it.

JASON Natural Toiletries

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
In today's world people are always looking for new ways to make their lives even more ecologically friendly. Natural and organic toiletries can be one option: not only are they good for the planet, but they are usually a lot better for humans too. However, all too often, natural ranges are simply not as effective as traditional, chemically based products. This is especially true of cosmetics, although there are some new ranges in the US which purport to be as effective. Toiletries are another matter. JASON, a range started in 1959, using the purest natural products is very impressive. Their products are delicate, with pleasing scents. Most of all, they are very effective. A particularly good example is their body powder. This is talc free, so is safe for babies and a good alternative for adults. It has a silky texture, comes in two great scents and is cheaper than similar talc free options. Indeed, the JASON range is competitively priced, thereby answering the objection that natural products can be prohibitively expensive. Furthermore, the range is stocked in a fairly wide range of places, including selected chemists and some supermarkets (in the UK). This range is really well worth making the swap from your usual brands.
www.jason-natural.com

Keeping Dry Feet During A British Summer

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Clearly, to say that the weather in the UK has not been very good so far this summer is to do a disservice to those parts of the country which have been submerged. The weather has been awful. The news is full of reports of an upturn in wellie and umbrella sales. These days there are quite a few types of wellies on the market, from the expensive (Hunter) to the cheap and cheerful (Office). However, if you like to wear something a little more unusual on your feet, I suggest you try wellies by Ana Designs limited, a small UK based company. These wellies are feminine, yet practical, and come in three colours/designs: burgundy meadow flower print, baby blue dash print and hot pink daisy print. The designs, inspired by summer scenes, are delicately abstract. Each pair of wellies comes with a handy free bootbag.

Wellington boots £49 with free bootbag.
See www.funkeethingz.com for details.

Paris Special: The Restaurants Of Thiou

Paris offers many wonderful restaurants. Sometimes it is interesting to take a tip from the Parisians themselves. They have been flocking to the three restaurants run by Thai chef Thiou: Thiou and Le Petit Thiou on the Left Bank and Comptoir de Thiou on the Right. Indeed, President Sarkozy is said to have taken Tony Blair to dinner at Thiou. The cuisine is Thai and Thai-fusion. Meals are delicious and light, which can prove to be a refreshing change. The decor is different in each restaurant but shares a restrained and chic ethos throughout. The ambiance is relaxed and the staff are exceptionally friendly and welcoming. Comptoir de Thiou especially is an oasis of calm for a relaxed yet chic meal.
Thiou 49, quai d'Orsay Tel: 0140629650 Le Petit Thiou 3, rue surcouf Tel:0140629670 Comptoir de Thiou 12, avenue George V Tel: 0147208956

Paris Special: Spotlight on.....Reciproque

Nestled on a quiet street in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, far from the main tourist thoroughfares, is a shop called Reciproque. I say "a shop" but in reality, it totals about six different storefronts dotted from 88 to 101 rue de la Pompe. Each little shop deals with a different genre of items i.e. womenswear, menswear, gifts, handbags and accessories. Reciproque is a "vintage" shop. All the stock is second-hand, but some items have only been worn once or twice in fashion shows or magazine shoots. Reciproque is a veritable treasure-trove, an Aladdin's cave stocked to the brim with rails, racks and bins. Items are divided by either designer or size. The presentation can seem a little chaotic, but digging around for a bargain is part of the fun. I found a Loro Piana handbag under a pile of other bags on the floor. It was slashed in price and seemingly forgotten. Some of the clothing can seem a little dated but there is a magnificent selection of furs. The handbag and accessories shop is wonderful and has a rail of vintage Hermes scarves. The revolving stock and lower prices make Reciproque a gem of a shop. However, be prepared to take a discerning eye and sharp elbows.
Reciproque, 88-101 rue de la Pompe, Paris 16eme. Metro Rue de la Pompe, line 9.

Happy 60th Birthday Dior!

Well, it isn't quite a birthday: after all, Christian Dior himself was born in 1905. However, this year marks the 60th anniversary of the foundation of the fashion house which bears his name. To celebrate this milestone, current designer John Galliano produced a 60th anniversary collection to remember during this season's Paris couture week. Held in the magnificent setting of L'Orangerie at Versailles, it certainly was an event to remember. Not only did the show reunite some of the most iconic models of the last couple of decades (Linda Evangelista, Shalom Harlow, Helena Christensen alongside the likes of Lily Cole and Doutzen Kroes)it served as a kind of visual memorial of the work of Christian Dior himself and of the late Steven Robinson, Galliano's right-hand man. However, as always, it was the clothes themselves that were the stars of the show. Following on from his triumphant Japanese inspired Spring collection, Galliano has once more produced a formidable, breath-taking display of his mastery of cut, tailoring and style.
This collection was seemingly inspired by both the signature "New Look" of early Dior and by the works of painters and other visual artists. Cinched waists and "Noir-ish" details (small hats, vertiginous heels, jet-black beading) abounded in reference to the former. The influence of the latter was present in the spectacular array of evening gowns. References to artists such as Renoir and Goya, and even Cecil Beaton, were obvious. However, there were also less direct allusions: a white dress whose front is wound into a slash of red, recalling a smear of pigment on the palette, combined with a hat in the shape of a palette. As with his previous couture collection, Galliano's strength here lies in his ability to transform inspirations which might seem easy to spot or well-known, into something new and unusual. Use of bold colour, unusual mixes of fabrics and adventurous surface details plays a huge part in this. For me, stand-out items include: this wonderful eggshell blue gown and jacket (below),

a form-fitting black dress and white evening coat with over-sized sleeves and graphic detailing

a wonderfully tailored, exquisitely detailed emerald green gown

and this killer outfit.


The stuff that dreams are made of!

How To Sale Shop - 5 Easy Rules

Sale season is upon us once more in London. With Quis Sum's easy to follow rules, you are sure to find a great bargain:

1. shop in off-peak hours - this means that the shops will be less crowded. If you have to shop on a Saturday, make sure you get there early.

2. grab first, think later - as you go round, pick up anything that catches your eye. When you have finished, sort through items and systematically discard those in which you are no longer interested.

3. go with your gut - if you have ANY doubts about the item, DO NOT buy it. You WILL regret it.

4. buy investment pieces - these are the best pieces to buy in a sale. It is worth paying more if you know that you will get years of wear out of it.

5. be determined - have a goal in mind (a certain item, a certain designer) and keep at it

You Heard It Here First!

If you didn't believe me about fans, have a look at this recent picture of Cameron Diaz.

See, Quis Sum is always ahead of the trends!
(Click on image for enlargement.)

Keeping Cool In The Summer Heat

Loewe fan. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
With the onset of global warming, cities in the summer are hotter and more humid than ever before. This can be a particular problem if you live in London, or a city in another country which has thus far been used to mild, rainy summer weather. There is a lack of adequate air-conditioning the shops, offices and homes. There is no accustomed siesta (although perhaps that is a bit much to expect!). There are also precious few ways of keeping cool when the thermometer rises. One way, however, is a fan. I don't mean the faintly annoying, buzzy portable electrical fans which M&S likes to sell in the summer months. I mean a traditional, old-fashioned fan. These are perhaps not the easiest of objects to find. A trip to Brussels, Bruge or Gent can yield a fine, lace version. However, these can be expensive and are more decorative than practical. The place to buy practical, chic fans in a variety of colours and styles is in Loewe boutiques and concessions. More famous for its leather goods and silk, the legendary Spanish house nonetheless produces an incomparable range of fans. Some of the items are collectables. However, the vast majority are easily affordable, durable and practical. A fan is an invaluable addition to our new balmy summers.
www.loewe.com Boutiques and concessions worldwide.

Affordable vs. Expensive....Make-Up Bags

Catseye bag. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Make-up bags decorated with photographs have been popular for a while now, mainly thanks to the designs of Anya Hindmarch. This range, with cheeky, amusing photographs, features several different bag sizes, one of which is a make-up bag. The bags are made from printed satin and feature a signature Anya Hindmarch zip pull.
However, a new contender has come on to the market. Catseye make-up bags feature cute photographs of farmyard animals and are waterproof inside and out.
Whether you choose the more expensive version (Anya Hindmarch) or the more affordable style (Catseye) a whimsically decorated make-up bag can brighten any day!
www.anyahindmarch.com
Catseye bags available from Fenwick in the UK.

Five Great Jackets

A jacket is a very useful wardrobe item. It can instantly smarten any outfit, or keep you warm, or protect you from the sun. Here are five great examples of different types to look out for. They range from cheap to expensive, proving that there is something out there for every budget:

Uniqlo. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Casual
A crop-sleeved jacket with a relaxed cut which is perfect for a summer outfit.

Topshop. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Boxy
A double breasted jacket in neutral beige would be perfect with many different types of trousers.

Paul and Joe. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Masculine
A pinstripe jacket with a slightly masculine cut adds edge and hardness to an outfit.

Smythe. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
Evening
An unusual, bolero-style evening jacket made from quilted velvet. It is exceptionally versatile and can be worn over dresses as well as trousers.

Chloe. Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
For Autumn
A pre-fall gem from Chloe, this tweed funnel neck jacket will be indispensible in chillier weather.

Are Pajars The New Uggs?

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
For several years now the Ugg boot, in its many forms, has held our collective imagination, so much so that it has become a new noun, a shorthand expression. Imitators and opponents have come and gone but the Uggs have always survived. As soon as the days start to grow colder (and for some, even when the days are warmer, though that is another story!), out come the Uggs. Rightly so, I can't really remember what I did before the warm, comfortable cocoons came into my life. My feet were cold, I suppose. Uggs are a true winter staple, all I have just said and stylish too (well, if you stick to traditional colours and don't go overboard on the accessories). There are two problems with the traditional style: the boots are not waterproof and there is no style with heels. Water-resistant they may be, but I have yet to find them stand up entirely to an English downpour. Of course, you might mention the leather version of the Ugg here. True, this is probably more waterproof, but it is not as comfortable nor as easy to pull on.
This may be where Pajars come in. An established Canadian brand, these boots are designed for even tougher weather than Uggs (well, perhaps not the heavy duty Uggs you can buy from the Ugg website) and some models are waterproof, some have heels or wedges. There are multiple styles and colours. Admittedly, some are not as stylish as others and none can probably achieve the popularity of the traditional, ubiquitous Ugg. However, Pajars would make a very useful addition to anyone's winter wardrobe. The "Bravo" could be a breakout hit.
Like Ugg, Pajar also produce a range of slippers. It is here that they really excel. There are several different styles. My favourite is the moccasin. Lined with fluffy white sheepskin and decorated with discreet beading on the top, these slippers are both practical and stylish. Nothing will keep you feet warmer.
The only problem with Pajars is that they are not that widely available outside of Canada. It remains to be seen if Harrods stock any of the boots nearer the winter: the slippers are currently available there.
www.pajar.com

Trend - watch - fall/winter at a glance

Whilst it might seem a little precocious to consider what we will be wearing in winter when it isn't even summer yet, it is never too early to plan ahead. Indeed, a capsule of the Balenciaga collection was already available as a trunk-show in Barneys in New York in March. Here are a few predictions for what to expect. As always, its a good idea to mix and match and pick your favourites from amongst these "trends".


Dior by John Galliano

1. color - there was a tussle between kaleidoscopic color and neutrals for the soul of the catwalk this season. Pink was a particularly popular color, with hues ranging from pastel to acid bright (as spearheaded by John Galliano at Dior, in a nod to the haute couture collection). Also, there were splashes of blue and red (notably at Chanel and Marc Jacobs, but elsewhere too) and the odd green. Neutrals remain popular, particularly tan to brown and grey to black, sometimes brightened with color, otherwise a statement in their own right.


Balenciaga (left) and Alexander McQueen.

2. body-aware detailing - this is the season for details on clothes which reflect the shape of the body beneath them, from the bold: Dolce and Gabbana's sequined collar bone and breasts shirt (not recommended for the faint of heart), Maison Martin Margiela's super wide shoulders and Alexander McQueen's moulded breastplates to the more subtle: waists cinched tight with belts on many catwalks, beaded and tailored details emphasising busts and waists at Roberto Cavalli.


Gucci

3. luxe dressing - luxe details and fabrics abounded on this season's catwalks: fur, embroidery, sequins, chiffon overlays, shimmering evening wear, leopard print. The key is not to overload your day look with luxe items. Take a hint from Gucci and wear fur trimmed items with simpler basics such as tweed. Mix leopard print with basic black. Evening wear allows you to be more adventurous.


Louis Vuitton

4. headgear - many different styles were evident on the catwalks, from fringed creations at Dior to oversized soft berets at Louis Vuitton and flamenco style hats at Kenzo and many more. Capes which extend to head scarfs were also very popular.

I'm Also Not A Plastic Bag!

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.

If you are in the UK, you have to have been living under a rock for the past few days, or at least had something very time consuming to do, if you haven't heard about Anya Hindmarch/Sainsbury's "eco-friendly" non-plastic carrier bag. It has received extensive media coverage (print, TV and radio). Here is a swift recap for the uninitated: the bag cost £5, it has been produced in limited number, it has been photographed on the arm of several trendy celebrities (none of whom had to join the 3am queues for the bag, I should imagine), it is now sold out. The bag was designed by Anya Hindmarch and was first available in her shops, in the aforementioned limited number. There were long queues and many disappointed people. The "£5 bag" is now changing hands for ever increasing sums on eBay (over £200 at the last count). A second consignment of the bags was available, in limited number, in Sainsburys stores. There were long queues starting a 3am etc, etc.
Now, the sentiment which produced this bag is more than admirable. Of course we should be thinking about reducing our impact on this earth by using fewer plastic carrier bags. Some shops are already swapping to eco-friendly, recyclable and bio-degrable paper: Selfridges and Primark (now is not the time to discuss the ethics of the latter) are two examples. However, the furore surrounding this particular bag shows that whilst some of its buyers might be environmentally friendly, the majority just want to have the latest fashion accessory. Anya Hindmarch's chic design of course adds to the popularity. I'm sure no-one would have bought an "ugly" eco-friendly bag. It also has to be argued that those who are environmentally conscious have already been using shopping bags made from eco-friendly materials. They don't need a "special" bag to make them do it. Neither should you. Don't buy into the hype. Pick one of any number of eco-friendly cloth bags and take them out with you when you shop. Decline offers of plastic bags from retailers and pop your purchases in the one bag. This way you can be different - pick a bag which has a slogan or picture which appeals to you. There is no fun in following the herd. Often exhibitions are a good place to find these bags. Museums usually produce at least one example for every major exhibition. The one pictured above is produced by the V&A in association with their magnificient Surrealism exhibition. I use it as an example because it is roughly comparable in size to "the bag". There are many great examples to be found in all sorts of places. There are also plenty of companies able to put your own photos on bags.
Of course, the media furore does at least mean that the need for eco-friendly bags is broadcast to a wider spectrum of the public. I hope that "the bag" succeeds in bringing public awareness to this topic. In particular, there is a lack of adequate shopping trolleys available in this country. You wouldn't be able to carry many groceries from the weekly shop in one little bag. City dwellers, those without cars, or those who seek to reduce their carbon-footprint by walking to and from the shops really need to pull their groceries, rather than stagger along with very heavy, shoulder-wrenching bags. English shopping trolleys are hopeless - either old fashioned or impractical and not very strong. Cross over the Channel and the French have applied their typical je ne sais pas to the matter. There you can find elegant, pretty trolleys, adorned with large photos of flowers, or with cartoons, or just in plain, bright colours. They are strong and perfect. I have two and they are invaluable.
Therefore, if you really want to make a difference to the environment, you don't have to rush out and buy the latest bag, just find one you like for yourself and use that instead!

Quick Tip - Tory Burch

Photography copyright Louisa McKenzie
Tory Burch's line has become the toast of Manhattan. A trip to her Soho shop (above) makes it easy to see why. Her clothes are chic and elegant without being showy. They combine the right about of retro detail with a modern feel. Most importantly, they are designed to be practical, not look practical. It is with accessories, however, that Tory Burch has really taken off. Her signature Reva ballet flat is immensely popular and available in a wide range of colours and prints. These shoes can be seen all over Manhattan and are easily affordable. Despite some of the collection being available in Harvey Nichols, in England the shoes, sadly are not. If you happen to be in New York, stock up.
Tory Burch, 257 Elizabeth Street.
212- 334-3000
www.toryburch.com

Department Store Wars!

One thing which New York does not lack is department stores. Depending on how flexible a definition is used, the total is at the very least five or six. The cream of the crop are the 3 Bs - Bloomingdales, Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman. These are all enviably situated within striking distance of each other.
Bloomingdales
Bloomingdales offers both the widest range and the biggest floor space of the three (unless you count Bergdorf's menswear shop with the womenswear shop). It would take several trips to fully explore. Items range from cheaper, diffusion lines and youth brands to the most expensive designer items. Bloomingdales is best for basics, such as magnificent hosiery and lingerie departments and t-shirts and casual wear. Also of note is the plus size department. This will be a revelation for larger ladies used to shopping in England: not only is there more choice and everything is cheaper but you'll find you take a smaller size too. Visit Bloomingales Soho branch for an easier shopping experience. This store is smaller and combines the best of Bloomingdales's younger, trendier lines.
Barneys
The trendiest of the New York department stores, Barneys was always being menitoned on Sex And The City, for good reason. Barneys' buyers have sought out the most cutting edge designers and hard to find lines, for example Trovata as well as more established name. The shop is well fitted - huge white spaces which make the clothes the stars. Furthermore, Barneys, if not small, is compact. You can get through the whole place easily. The shoe department is renowned and indeed offers a magnificent selection. However, for me, it is a close call with Bergdorf Goodman. Barney's shoe department offers a wider range and, in keeping with the shop's ethos, more cutting edge designers. Also of note at Barneys is the restaurant, Fred's. London department store dining has nothing on either Barneys or Bergdorf's eateries. Fred's is a place to see and be seen buit also offers and wide ranging, extremely resonable menu in chic surroundings.
Bergdorf Goodman
Magnificent architecturally, Bergdorf Goodman exudes old fashioned elegance. The emphasis here is on the higher end designers, although there is a floor of "younger designs" for more affordable collections. This is a place which has a whole section devoted to evening dresses of the highest order. The shoe department is sublime, with masses of Louboutins, Alaias and a dedicated Blahnik department. Accessories on the ground floor (floor 1 American) is also well worth a visit, with a great range and some unusual items (Zac Posen handbags). The restaurant, BG, offers sublime views of the park and manageable, delicious portions.


Also well worth a look is the tiny Henri Bendel on 5th, which is distinguished by the Frederic Fekkai salon it houses, a collection of own label jumpers in many colors and styles, and an innovative jewellery section.

Spotlight on.....La Goulue

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie
It is testament to how expensive London has become that I found a restaurant which is known as one of New York's finest to be more than reasonable. Indeed, in London, you could almost pay the same amount for a meal at a mid-range restaurant as my dining companion and I paid for a fantastic meal with wine at La Goulue.
La Goulue is a little slice of France in New York city. Decorated like a Parisian bistro, with dark woodwork and low lights it has a menu full of typically French influenced favorites which keep customers returning again and again. Personal favorites were the lamb with barley risotto (delicate flavours) and the divine steak. Changing specials are equally inventive and impressive. I sampled a wonderful rabbit dish. If you visit La Goulue (and I highly recommend it) make sure you leave room for a desert. The vacherin and the crepes suzette, in particular, are worth waiting for.
The restaurant, or rather its clientele, can have a bit of a reputation for being snobby. However, I found nothing to be further from the truth. The staff are friendly and accommodating. Having visited on several occasions, with different dining companions, I found the staff able to suit even the most demanding of palettes. Nothing was too much trouble for them.
Personal service and remembering customers after a first visit ensure that returning visitors are treated more like old friends than customers. Furthermore, although the restaurant is popular, you are not expected to hurry your meal and the atmosphere is very relaxed.
A New York must!
La Goulue Restaurant
746 Madison Avenue, New York City
212-988-8169

Spotlight on.....By Terry

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
My new favourite make-up range, By Terry, is the brainchild of Terry de Gunzburg. Formerly of Yves Saint Laurent (Touche Eclat was a key product), Terry's eponymous make-up line has been available in France for several years but has recently been lauched in the UK and the USA. By Terry products are distinguished by their usability, range of colors and light texture. You never feel like you are wearing make-up, just that your skin has been improved.
The bedrock of the range is its wonderful choice of foundations. Echoes of Touche Eclat can be seen the newest product - Light Expert. This is a chubby foundation pen with a large brush. This makes application very easy. The foundation itself is extremely blendable and, as its name would suggest, light reflective. My other favourite products are the eye shadows, which I find extremely long lasting and to have an excellent, wearable colour palette and the mascara. The innovative shape of mascara wand allows the mascara to coat the lashes exactly where it is needed (more at the outer corners). Lashes are left looking natural, but fabulous.
By Terry products are innovative and well designed. Their practicality makes them perfect for the woman who does not have hours to spend on her make-up every day.
www.byterry.com

Beauty Burst - Shiseido The Skincare

Photograph copyright Louisa McKenzie.
It has always been my opinion that prevention is better than cure, especially when it comes to good skincare. However, it seems that everyday there is a new skincare range vying for attention. Over the years, in the name of science (and because I have difficult skin) I have tried many of these ranges, from cheap to expensive. I have just discovered a recently reformulated range which is perfect for my skin - Shisedio The Skincare. Ok, "So just because it suits your skin doesn't mean it will suit my skin" you might say. I would agree. However, the beauty of the Shiseido range is that it has three different levels: light, normal and enriched, so that you can be advised of the right level for your specific skin type. I use the "light" end of the spectrum because I have sensitive, oil-prone skin.
The innovative formula has replaced the "toner" stage of a normal skincare routine with a "skin softener". This is a viscous, clear lotion which plumps the skin and allows you to use less moisturiser afterwards. After using the routine for a month, my skin is glowing, and it hasn't been glowing for years.
A word of warning - if looking to buy the product in the UK, make sure to check that you are buying the updated range, some counters haven't replaced the old stock yet.
www.shiseido.co.uk

A Quick Message From Quis Sum?

Hello all!

Never fear, there will be new posts soon. Sorry for the delay - have been away. However, you can expect some goodies over the coming weeks, including: destination and shopping reviews for New York City, some very useful beauty ideas and much more.

Best,

Quis Sum?